Obtaining a Permit
Permits are required for most building, electrical, plumbing, heating and cooling, excavating, concrete, painting, demolitions and other projects except minor repairs. Either the contractor or the homeowner may purchase the permits from the Housing and Building Department; however, it is the homeowner’s responsibility, ultimately, to ensure that any required permits are obtained. Permits must be obtained before work can begin, and must be posted. Timing is also important of any building projects.
When Building Permits Are Required
The following are examples of projects that may require a permit. Remember, there are other projects that are not listed that may require permits;
- Any concrete or asphalt work involving replacement or asphalt resurfacing, or any paving work (brick walks, etc.)
- Any electrical (other than minor violation corrections), plumbing, heating, or air conditioning work
- Building any new structure or addition or major renovation
- Grading or re-grading lawns
- To demolish, alter, or make major repairs to any existing building structure, or any portion of that structure including; roofing, porches/decks, fences, and garages
- Window replacements, new siding (except for small areas of replacement), decks, new steps/rebuilding steps
- Exterior painting of house excluding minor touch-ups
It’s a good idea to check with the Housing and Building Department to confirm if your project requires a permit. Ohio Laws allow for 30 days for a permit to be issued after application. We try to issue permits within a few days of application. It is important that you take the time it will take to get a permit into your project schedule and timeline.
Village of Newburgh Heights Building Code
Why Permits Are Important?
- Helps Protect Property Value: Your home or business is an investment. If your construction project does not comply with the codes adopted by your community, the value of your investment could be reduced.
- Saves Money: Property insurers may not cover work or damages caused by work done without permits and inspections.
- Makes Selling Property Easier: When property is sold through a multiple listing association, the owner is required to disclose any improvements or repairs made and if permits and inspections were obtained. Many financial institutions will not finance a purchase without proof of a final inspection. If you decide to sell a home or building that has had modifications without a permit, you may be required to tear down the addition, leave it unoccupied or do costly repairs.
- Improves Safety: Your permit allows the code official to reduce potential hazards of unsafe construction to provide for public health, safety and welfare. By following code guidelines, your completed project will meet minimum standards of safety and will be less likely to cause injury to you, your family, and your friends or future owners. Mandatory inspections complement the contractor’s experience and act as a system of checks and balances resulting in a safer project.
- It’s the Law: Work requiring permits are made such by City Ordinance and state building code. Work without a permit may be subject to removal or other costly remedies.
FOR PERMIT, SUBMIT 3 SETS OF PLANS – WHICH SHALL INCLUDE A SITE PLAN
TWO WILL BE RETURNED “APPROVED” WITH PERMIT
NOTE: AN ELECTRICAL PERMIT MUST BE OBTAINED BEFORE ANY PERMIT IS ISSUED FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE GARAGE
DETACHED GARAGES: 1131.03 (b)(3): Private Garages: A private garage, either attached or detached, shall be required for all dwellings in the residential district the same lot with the main building. All garages shall conform to the following regulations:
- A minimum of two hundred forty (240) square feet
- A maximum size of twenty-seven (27) feet in width and twenty-seven (27) feet in depth
- Not more than one (1) garage shall be permitted on any one (1) lot
- A detached garage shall not be located closer than three (3) feet from a rear lot line and no closer than three (3) feet from a side lot line of an abutting residential use. In the case of a corner lot, the garage shall not be placed closer to the side street than the required setback for that side street.
- A detached garage shall not exceed eighteen (18) feet to the peak of the gable.
- A detached garage shall be located back of the rear wall of the main building and not closer than ten (10) feet therefrom. (and accessible for a vehicle)
- An attached garage shall not protrude closer to the frontage street that the main facade of the dwelling
- A man door (side hinged) 30” wide and 6’8” high shall be required (311.211 RCO)
- The floor of the garage shall be sloped to facilitate the movement of liquids toward the main vehicle entry door or an approved drain
1137.06 OFF STREET PARKING STANDARDS:
One family residence: 1 enclosed space for existing residential structures and 2 enclosed spaces per dwelling unit for new construction
Two family residence: 1 enclosed space per dwelling unit for existing structures and new construction
Footings shall be at least 12” below grade. A concrete or masonry foundation wall (rat wall) shall extend above the finished grade adjacent to the foundation a minimum of 4”. Concrete flooring shall have a minimum thickness of 4” on compacted base of aggregate, a minimum of 4” deep. A treated plate shall be anchored with bolts a minimum of 1/2’” diameter spaced no more than 6’ apart and shall extend a minimum of 7” into concrete/masonry.
**PLEASE NOTE: THESE ARE NOT ALL THE REQUIREMENTS FOR WIRING A GARAGE; THEY ARE QUESTIONS THAT ARE MOST OFTEN ASKED. ALWAYS ENSURE YOUR CONTRACTOR IS LICENSED AND REGISTERED WITH THE VILLAGE.
ALL INSTALLATIONS MUST BE PER CURRENT NEC
Wiring must be done to the standards of the latest state-adopted National Electrical Code. (separate permit required). Service must have shut off/main disconnect immediately inside the garage, for each; receptacle outlets and lights, at the entrance point of the feed from the house, in addition to the breaker disconnect at panel in home. Man door shall be illuminated by switched fixtures, inside and out. Outlets must be GFCI and supplied by its own 20-amp circuit. One receptacle for each car bay. Lights need to be switched and independent of the outlets. Outlets at or below 5’ 6” must be tamper resistant. Any receptacles on the exterior of the garage must be tamper resistant, GFCI protected and “weather resistant.” Exterior receptacles will also need an “extra duty” in use (bubble) cover where exposed to direct rain. Wiring inside garage must be drilled through studs, not run on face. Never drill through factory roof trusses. If wiring is run horizontally, it must be higher than 7’ or protected (covered and inaccessible). Underground wiring to be at a minimum depth as outlined in table 300.5 of the NEC. I.E. 24” deep for direct wire, 18” deep if in nonmetallic conduit
ALL TRENCHES MUST BE INSPECTED BEFORE THEY CAN BE COVERED UP
If an outlet(s) is installed for the purpose of charging electric vehicles it shall be supplied by a separate circuit. The circuit shall not have other outlets.
Gutters and downspouts are required for all new garages. Downspouts may be connected to the public sewer system, a dry well (a 3’ x 3’ x 3’ gravel pit (1 cubic yard) or provide splash blocks. Any dry well must be landscaped over, located within the required setbacks. Discharged water cannot be diverted towards a neighboring property or in such a way that will cause a nuisance. If using splash blocks, they cannot be located in such a position that allows discharge towards adjacent properties.
New roof installations shall comply with the Residential Code of Ohio and manufacturer’s published instructions. Shingles or approved tiles shall be used on all slopes of 2 in 12 or steeper and installed over 15# felt underlayment. If roof rafters are more than 16” OC, “H” clips are required for sheathing.